Mont Saint Michel France
August 15, 2009 by Travel Guide Greg
Filed under France, Travel Guides, Travel Tips
Mont Saint-Michel. As you approach it, the abbey seems to float on the horizon… its spire glinting gold in the sun. It has attracted pilgrims for hundreds of years. Today it still attracts visitors… over three million tourists a year.
The legend is that a bishop in the 8th century heard the voice of the Archangel Michael tell him to build the abbey. There had been churches on the site before, but the striking abbey of Mont Saint-Michel was what started drawing pilgrims.
The land around the island is a flood plain, and it is often surrounded by water at high tide. There is a causeway that leads to the island. It is no longer as isolated as it once was because the causeway itself has stopped the flow of tides around the island and much of the bay has silted up.
The Abbey church is only the top most building on this little island. It is surrounded high on the hill by monastic buildings. The granite rock it sits on is 275 feet (84 meters) high. It is pure granite, so it has resisted time and the tides… holding steady as… well steady as a rock. The view of the abbey is grand from afar, but inside it is very simplistic, almost stark.
The rest of the island has been developed through the centuries with a warren of small houses and shops on its lower levels. The village that grew up around the abbey lies huddled within fortifications of crenellated ramparts, towers, and a 14th century barbican (double tower with drawbridge or gate). It was built as a medieval castle; two large towers defend the entrance to the castle.
Once you enter the gate, the main road winds up the hill through what has become a gauntlet of tourist shops. The town is like a maze with staircases going up behind the shops and walkways snake behind the shops and lead to surprising vistas looking over the bay.
Shops used to sell souvenir medallions and candles to pilgrims, and food stalls kept them fed. There are still pilgrims to the site, but pilgrims have largely given way to tourists who just want to see the abbey. You can still buy candles and medallions, but you are also offered a plethora of snow globes,ashtrays, and post cards.
Some food shops have gained a certain notoriety…. La Mere Poulard is probably one of the most famous. At the entrance to the restaurant, waiters beat eggs for omelets with a catchy cadence that attracts hungry tourists. The omelets are cooked over fires.
The menu is pricey, but you can watch for free. Many celebrities have eaten at Mere Poulard’s, so just to join that list of diners, you could splurge. Go ahead, have an omelet and cider, you’ll be in good company. There are also plenty of sea food restaurants with views of the bay.
Stay on the island if you can…. The day trippers will go home, and you can explore. Park in the pay lot near the entrance. Be forewarned, it’s not worth trying save money and park off on the lower edges. High tide can bring water all the way up to the causeway, and you’d have a hard time explaining a how your rental car got soaked with salt water.
There are plans to remove the causeway and turn the approach into a bridge. This should allow circulating tides to make Mont Saint Michel an island again, and that would be wonderful.
I think part of the draw is just that Mont Saint-Michel is such a beautiful sight as it seems to float on the horizon.
